About Oils & Butters for Lotions, Soaps Etc.

                                       Oils & Butters

These are Non-Greasy Oils:

Aloe Vera  is an extraction of healing aloe from the plant. Aloe melts on contact with the skin and is wonderful for treating dry skin, eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, sunburn and chapping. This great product moisturizes and also includes all of the wonderful healing properties of aloe. Aloe vera gel has antimicrobial properties that kill bacteria and anti-inflammatory properties that reduce skin inflammation. It allows the skin to heal quickly and naturally with minimal scarring. Aloe is moisturizing but does not give skin a greasy feel.  Aloe vera helps fight common problems of skin aging.The vitamin C and E present in aloe can improve our skin`s natural firmness and keep our skin hydrated.

Aloe Vera Benefits for Hair:

- Moisturizes

- Detangles

- Can activate fresh growth

- Heals and soothes damaged scalp from dandruff, scratches, & burns

- Is an anti-puritic reducing dandruff, itchy, scaly scalp and Seborrheic Dermatitis

- Balances pH level (porosity) of hair

- Can help define hair

- Prevents excessive hair loss

- Enhances Cellular Rejuvenation ( restoration of cells)

- Contains Natural Building Enzyme for Proteins

- Anti-Inflammatory

Estimates of the amino acids found in aloe range from 18-20 amino acids, with all 8 essential amino acids. Other fatty acids include linoleic, linolenic, myristic, caprylic, oleic, palmitic, and  stearic.

*Think I'll use Aloe Vera juice for lotion, soap, and hair conditioner.* 

*WalMart sells Aloe Vera juice.*

(Sweet) Almond Oil, Prunus dulcis, cold pressed from the dried kernels of the almond tree, is  moisturizing, nourishing properties and is easily absorbed, leaving the skin soft and smooth without a greasy feel. It is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins A, B1, B2, B6, and E and is said to relieve dry, itchy skin. In hair care, sweet almond oil helps condition, nourish, and soften hair. Sweet Almond Oil is often used for superfatting soaps. It is a great moisturizer, makes a stable lather and helps condition the skin. Add 1 ounce per pound of fats to your soap batch at trace.

Oleic 64-82%

Linoleic 8-28%

Palmitic 6-8%

Stearic 2%

Attributes: 7 Hardness, 89 Conditioning, 7 Creamy, 99 Iodine, 97 INS.

* I want to use in lotions and soaps.*

Beeswax, Cera alba, is produced by the (female) worker honeybees. The bees mold the wax into six-sided cells which are filled with honey and then capped with more wax. When honey is harvested, the top layer of wax that covers the cells, called the cappings, must be removed. Beeswax forms a lovely, light barrier on your skin that prevents loss of moisture and helps seal in moisturizing oils and butters, without clogging pores. In hair care Beeswax adds moisture, hydration, and softness to hair and can add shine and glossiness to dull hair.  

Beeswax offers anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and antiviral benefits. Beeswax acts as an emollient and a humectant, drawing moisture to the skin and sealing it   Beeswax also contains vitamin A

Beeswax gives emollient, soothing and softening qualities to the bar. Antibacterial, antiseptic and wound healing action. Beeswax will not become rancid. Beeswax contains about 50% unsaponifiables. Decreases trace time. Lengthens time before soap becomes rancid. 

*Beeswax is the only thing I've heard of that I can add with other oils 

before trace that will retain it's smell through saponification. If using in 

soap only add about 1- 1.5%*

*I want to use in lotions. Maybe add alittle to soap as the smell survives saponification and may help prevent soap ash*

Canola Oil, **Do NOT use. Other oils can provide everything Canola Oil has to offer and do a better job. Also it can cause DOS***

Castor Oil.Castor oil is very thick, making it a good sealant to lock in moisture and to smooth severely dry skin and calluses. Castor oil can also be used on hair to help increase circulation, stimulate hair growth and prevent hair loss. Its antifungal and antibacterial properties can help treat scalp conditions including dandruff, scalp infection and scalp inflammation, all of which can be sources of hair loss. Castor oil is unique in being almost entirely composed of ricinoleic fatty acid, found in no

other oils and possessing a high affinity for water molecules. This makes it an excellent humectant, attracting and holding moisture to the

skin. Castor oil should be used at low percentages to avoid overly soft

soaps. 
Ricinoleic 90%

Linoleic 3-4%

Oleic 3-4%

Attributes: 98 Conditioning, 90 Bubbly, 90 Creamy, 86 Iodine, 95 INS.

*Use in soap and shampoo*

Coconut Oil, Cocos nucifera, from the fruit of the Coconut Palm, is a great moisturizer. When rubbed into the skin, the rich natural fats are easily absorbed and penetrate deeply to plump up your cells creating a smoother, softer, healthier and more youthful appearance This oil gives soap cleansing properties and makes a rich creamy lather with big, fluffy bubbles. In hair care it is used as a hair tonic to stimulate the scalp and encourage hair growth.Coconut Oil makes soaps lather beautifully but can be drying when it makes up a large portion of your soaps’ fats. It will make a very hard, white bar of soap with abundant lather. It even lathers in very hard water, even seawater). Coconut oil is a saturated fat. Use it at a percentage of no more than 20-30% in your base oils

.Lauric 39-54%

Myristic 15-23%

Palmitic 6-11%

Capric 6%

Oleic 4-11%

Stearic 1-4%

Linoleic 1-2%

Attributes: 79 Hardness, 67 Cleansing, 10 Conditioning, 67 Bubbly, 12 Creamy, 10 Iodine, 258 INS

*I want to use in shampoo and soap*

Grapeseed Oil, Vitis vinifera, extracted from the seeds of grapes, is a lightweight oil that easily absorbs into the skin without leaving a greasy feeling. It is very rich in linoleic acid, (Omega 6), an moisturizing fatty acid quite important for the skin and cell membranes. In hair care, grapeseed oil promotes healthy hair and has been used in conjunction with jojoba oil and essential oils as an anti-hair loss massage. It also has good slippage for detangling hair.Grapeseed Oil is a lightweight oil that absorbs into the skin quickly without leaving a heavy greasy feeling. Used in soaps as a superfatting oil. Use one ounce per pound at trace.

Grapeseed Oil is a lightweight oil that absorbs into the skin quickly without leaving a heavy greasy feeling. Used in soaps as a superfatting oil. Use one ounce per pound at trace.

Linoleic 58-78%

Oleic 12-28%

Palmitic 5-11%

Stearic 3-6%

Attributes: 12 Hardness, 88 Conditioning, 12 Creamy, 131 Iodine, 66 INS

*I think because of the short shelf life, I will use this in lotion recipes, as I don't make much lotion at one time anyway.*

Kokum Butter;  a highly prized butter obtained from a tree in India, is non-comedogenic, high in vitamin E, and rich in essential fatty acids (Omega's 3,6 and 9). Kokum butter is a very good antioxidant (combatant of free radicals).  It is rich in citric acid, hydroxicitric acid, malic acid, polyphenols and acetic acid.  Also containing garcinol, vitamin B complexes, potassium, manganese, and magnesium. It has been used traditionally in India to soften skin and restore elasticity and as a balm for dry, cracked, rough and calloused skin. It is a great ingredient to add to healing creams and body butters because of its ability to soothe and heal chapped dry skin.  Kokum Nut Oil is high in linoleic acid. It is quickly absorbed into the skin. Excellent for skin conditioning after sun exposure, as well as for acne, eczema, and psoriasis. It offers just the right amount of lubrication without leaving a greasy feeling. Aids in the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles. 

Linoleic 42%

Oleic 20%

Palmitic 6%

Attributes: 60 Hardness, 37 Conditioning, 60 Creamy, 35 Iodine, 155 INS

*I want to use in lotion.*

Mango Butter, Mangifera indica, a gentle butter obtained from the fruit kernels of the Mango tree, is rich in essential fatty acids necessary to restore skin tone, elasticity and flexibility. It is a great moisturizer for all skin types, but especially mature, dry or sun-damaged akin. Nourishing mango butter helps provide relief from the dryness of eczema and psoriasis. In hair care, mango butter replaces moisture, adds softness, elasticity and shine to your hair. It is a great moisturizer and should be used to superfat batches. Can be used at up to 15% of base or as a superfatting agent at 5% at trace.

Oleic 34-56%

Stearic 26-57%

Palmitic 3-18%

Linoleic 1-13%

Attributes: 49 Hardness, 48 Conditioning, 49 Creamy, 45 Iodine, 146 INS

*I want to use in lotion.*

]

Neem Oil, Azadirachta indica, cold pressed from the fruit of the Neem or Margosa tree, is an excellent moisturizing oil whose medicinal use can be traced back to the Indian Harappa culture, 4,500 years ago. Known as “the village pharmacy" in India, neem plays an essential role in Ayurvedic medicine as an antiseptic to fight viruses and bacteria. The neem fruit  contains a substance with a garlicky odor that has been used in the treatment of many skin aliments such as acne, psoriasis and eczema. It is especially gentle and nourishing when used for itchy, sensitive or dry skin conditions. In hair care, it is used to treat itchy, irritated scalps, other scalp problems.  The scent of neem is very strong...a sort of green, earthy, nutty smell...and takes some getting used to. But it doesn't come through too strongly in the soap, and blends well with other earthy scents. One soap maker uses neem oil at about 25% of the recipe and sends it to soldiers in the middle east to repel sand flies. Another has added Neem Oil at 10%.

Oleic 50%

Palmitic 18%

Stearic 15%

Linoleic 13%

Attributes: 33 Hardness, 63 Conditioning, 33 Creamy, 89 Iodine, 124 INS

 *I want to use as insect repellent base.*

Olive Oil, Olea europea, obtained from cold pressed olives, attracts external moisture, holds the moisture close to the skin, and forms a breathable film to prevent loss of internal moisture. Since the fat composition of olive oil is very similar to that of human skin, it rarely causes allergic reactions and does not block the natural functions of the skin. Olive oil is believed to have healing properties and helps keeps skin soft, supple and younger looking. In hair care, olive, used for centuries in hot oil treatments, helps repair split ends, control dandruff, and makes your hair shiny, silky, and lustrous. Olive Oil is excellent as a base oil in soaps, either in whole (Castile soap) or in part. Avoid extra virgin olive oil. It is great for cooking but not for soap mak-ing. The lower the grades are best. If you are making an especially mild soap or baby soap, use Olive oil. Use as a base oil up to 100%

Oleic 63-81%

Palmitic 7-14%

Linoleic 5-15%

Stearic 3-5%

Attributes: 17 Hardness, 82 Conditioning, 17 Creamy, 85 Iodine, 105 INS

*I want to use in shampoo and soap.*

Palm Oil, Elaeis guineensis, is produced from portion of the fruit of the palm. It makes a nice hard bar of soap that cleans well when used in combination with other oils such as coconut and olive oil. It lends hardness and smooth creamy bubbles to soap. Palm oil is universal and used in many luxury soaps.It is found in shampoos and soaps for its ability to remove oil and dirt from hair and skin. It also contains a refatting agent that helps restore the hair and skin natural oils most soaps and shampoos strip away letting moisture escape. In shampoos and conditioners, it also provides a conditioning agent. It is added to skin care products not only for its anti-aging properties, but also because it provides deep moisturizing properties making the skin soft and supple.

Palmitic 43-45%

Oleic 38-40%

Linoleic 9-11%

Stearic 4-5%

Myristic 1%

Attributes: 50 Hardness, 1 Cleansing, 49 Conditioning, 1 Bubbly, 49 Creamy, 53 Iodine, 145 INS

*I want to use in soap. Buy Great Value Shortening, it has 

Palm Oil in it.*

Safflower Oil Benefits for HairSafflower oil is highly rich in polyunsaturated fats, containing 77% linoleic acid (omega-6 Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs)), 10% saturated fats, and 13% oleic acid (omega-9s - monosaturates). It also comprises high levels of vitamin E, alpha-tocopherol and phytosterols, and so helps in preventing and treating EFA deficiencies in the body. Safflower oil contains high amounts of oleic acid, which is light in texture and penetrates the skin easily. This protects, nourishes, hydrates and firms the hair. Being extremely rich in essential polyunsaturated fatty acids, it is highly beneficial for dry, color treated or perm hair. When applied to the scalp, it acts as a vasodilator which can dilate the blood vessels, resulting in more nutrients supply to the hair follicles through blood circulation, and a healthy environment for hair regrowth. Has shelf life of about 6 months.

Linoleic 70-80%
Oleic 10-20%
Palmitic 6-7%
Stearic 2%

Attributes: 7 Hardness, 90 Conditioning, 7 Creamy, 145 Iodine, 47 INS

*I want to use in lotion and hair conditioner*

Sunflower Oil, Helianthus annuus, expeller pressed from the seeds, is very high in essential fatty acids and helps to moisturize, regenerate and condition the skin. This oil is easily absorbed and can be used on all skin types. It is high in tocopherols (vitamin E), a natural antioxidant, making it especially helpful for delicate, dry or mature skin. It is known to be one of the most moisturizing vegetable oils. In hair care, nutrient-rich sunflower oil moisturizes, nourishes and protects for silky, strong, healthy hair. Sunflower oil is said to be a hair strengthener and prevent aging of the hair follicle.Sunflower Oil is a less expensive alternative to olive oil. It contains Vitamin E, so it naturally resists going rancid (Vitamin E is a preservative). Try to avoid using more than about 15-20% sunflower oil. It can make your soaps take longer to trace and to harden. Use as a Base oil up to 20% Excellent source of linoleic acid 61-%73% Shelf life of about 6 months.
Linoleic 68-70%
Oleic 16-19%
Palmitic 7%
Stearic 4-5%
Attributes: 11 Hardness, 87 Conditioning, 11 Creamy, 133 Iodine, 63 INS
**Do NOT use in soap. Can cause DOS***

*I want to use this in lotions because of it's short shelf life, but excellent linoleic acid content*

Tallow (Beef fat):Has to be rendered from cow suet.  Contributes to: soap hardness, stable lather, conditioning, quicker trace.Tallow contains abundant natural fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, E, and K) and fat-soluble activators, which are found only in animal fats and which all promote skin health. Tallow also contains fats like conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), which has anti-cancer and anti-inflammatory properties, and palmitoleic acid, which has natural antimicrobial properties.

• With around 55% natural saturated fats, tallow is a stable fat that won’t easily go rancid. In addition, our skin cell membranes are also approximately 55% saturated fat, making this a perfectly compatible skin moisturizer.
• Easily absorbable so it doesn’t leave your skin feeling overly greasy like other body butters.

Oleic 37%
Palmitic 35%
Stearic 14%
Myristic 4%
Linoleic 6%

Lauric 1%
Linolinic 1%
Attributes: 58 Hardness, 8 Cleansing, 40 Conditioning, 8 Bubbly, 50 Creamy, 45 Iodine, 147 INS

**Use Great Value Shortening. It contains Tallow and Palm 

Oil**

Attributes of GV Shortening: 54 Hardness, 5 Cleansing, 44 Conditioning, 5 Bubbly, 49 Creamy, 49 Iodine, 151 INS

*I want to use in soap*

These can be greasy butters:

Cocoa Butter, Theobroma cacao, a prime pressed creamy yellow butter from the seed of the Cacao Tree, has the distinct aroma of chocolate. Cocoa butter is an excellent all over the body moisturizer as it acts as an emollient (softening and soothing to the skin) that adds a protective layer that locks in natural moisture. It soothes and softens dry, itchy skin. The natural emolliency, moisturizing and antioxidant characteristics of cocoa butter make it an excellent choice for dry overworked skin. Cocoa butter is often found in products that claim to reduce the appearance of stretch marks and scars. In soap, cocoa butter helps make a hard, very moisturizing bar - great for very dry skin. In hair care cocoa butter easily absorbs into the hair and imparts sheen. It locks in moisture and helps protect the hair shaft. Plus, it smells good enough to eat!  Cocoa butter is used to make soaps harder. When used in soap as a superfatting oil it acts to lay down a protective layer that holds the moisture to the skin, so it is an excellent skin softener. It has a natural chocolate scent but it is also available in unscented versions. You can use about 1 ounce to a pound at trace, or as much as 15% of your total base oils, de-pending on your preference.

Stearic 31-38%

Oleic 32-36%

Palmitic 25-30%

Linoleic 3%

Attributes: 61 Hardness, 38 Conditioning, 61 Creamy, 37 Iodine, 157 INS

*Use in soap recipes*

Flaxseed Oil, (Also known as linseed oil) Flaxseed oil is 
said to soften and heal skin abrasions and scars and to reduce swelling and 
redness of rashes and lesions from skin disease. Also used in creams, 
lotions and balms. Used in hair, it helps hair grow, helps eliminate dandruff, 
and helps hair retain moisture.  For skin, it aides in smoother, firmer skin, 
softens the look of fine lines, helps prevent rosacea,  psoriasis, and eczema. 
Shelf life is 1 year.

**Alpha Linolenic 53%**
Linolenic 16%
Oleic 14-21%
Linoleic 7-19%
Palmitic 3-9%
Stearic 2-7% 

Attributes: 9 Hardness, 90 Conditioning, 9 Creamy, 180 Iodine, -6 INS

Shea Nut Butter, Butyrospermum parkii, also known as African Karite Butter, has been shown to increase the healing of wounds and improve scars. It is used to soothe burns, rashes, severely dry skin, and to lessen the irritation of eczema and psoriasis. It penetrates deep, moisturizes and nourishes, and is excellent for dry, damaged and maturing skin. Shea butter contains unsaponifiable fats, which do not turn to soap and thus supply wonderful moisturizing properties in a bar of soap. In hair care Shea Butter provides deep nourishment for the hair shaft, and moisturizes dry, dull hair resulting in improved luster and manageability. It is particularly beneficial for processed and heat-treated hair and is also believed to help promote new hair growth. Shea butter is a wonderful superfatting agent and contains a large percentage of ingredients that do not react with the lye thus remaining in the soap to nourish your skin. Use it with your base at up to 20% of your total oils or as a superfatting agent at 1 2/3 tablespoons per 5 pounds of oils added at trace.

Oleic 40-55%

Stearic 35-45%

Linoleic 3-8%

Palmitic 3-7%

Attributes: 45 Hardness, 54 Conditioning, 45 Creamy, 59 Iodine, 116 INS

* Use in soap recipes*

*Above information is taken from http://www.chagrinvalleysoapandsalve.com/ingredients/baseoils.aspx
 and                                         http://www.aromagregory.com/journal/carrier-oils/

More good information about oil properties can be found here:  http://www.millersoap.com/soapdesign.html 

http://www.absolutely-natural.com/pages/key-ingredients

 I like a small percentage of shea in soap - like 10% or less - and have never found it to be greasy feeling. I've not used cocoa butter in soap but I imagine it works pretty much the same as shea. Shea butter adds to the conditioning factor. I avoid sunflower oil because it can go rancid quickly and cause DOS if used in high amounts. I used either 17% or 19% (been a while, I forget exactly) in soap once and got DOS - my only case. I am not opposed to animal products and I get great results from both tallow and lard - they make very conditioning and hard bars of soap. I put castor oil in every batch for the lather. I keep it under 10% in bath soap but have gone as high as 24% in shampoo bars and have never had soft or sticky bars as some have reported. The lather in those shampoo bars is awesome. Coconut oil in soap can strip the oils from your skin (high cleansing, some would call it drying) in higher amounts so if I use a lot of coconut oil I increase the SF %. I make salt soap that is 100% coconut oil so I SF it at 20%. In bath soap I keep the coconut oil around 20% of the recipe. Coconut oil also increases lather.

My conclusions on use of Shea, Cocoa, Kokum, & Mango Buters:

Apparently Shea & Cocoa Butter do not make soap feel greasy. I will use Shea & Cocoa Butter in soap. I will use Kokum & Mango Butters in lotions. Of these butters Shea appears to have the most benefit, with Cocoa Butter coming in second.

More information on different oils at https://summerbeemeadow.com/content/properties-soapmaking-oils
http://home.windstream.net/familyjeans/propertiesofoils.html