Lotion percentage calculators:
http://lotionsecrets.com/lotionrecipes.html
For actual LOTIONS, I want these percentages: Emulsifiers 5-8% Oils 12-20% Water, Additives, and Botanicals to 100 %.
http://www.diycosmetics.com/pages/How-to-Make-Creams-and-Lotions.htmlFor actual LOTIONS, I want these percentages: Emulsifiers 5-8% Oils 12-20% Water, Additives, and Botanicals to 100 %.
This will make lotion BARS: A good base to start with is 1/3 soft oils, 1/3 hard oils, 1/3 beeswax. I can up the hard and soft oils a little bit and lower the beeswax, but not too much!
Looks like a good combination would be Mango (hard) Coconut Oil (hard) Castor Oil (soft) Sunflower or Safflower (soft) and beeswax.
Mango has good quantities of Oleic, Stearic, Palmitic & Linoleic.
Coconut Oil has good quantities of Lauric, Myristic, Palmitic, Capric, Oleic,
Sunflower and Safflower have high linoleic content.
Castor Oil has high Ricinoleic content.
Adding a little bit of cornstarch will add silkiness and thicken. Can be added to oils or water.
Can use Aloe Vera Juice instead of distilled water, if desired.
Use 1 Tbs of wax/ounce of oil.
Can use rose petals, citrus teas etc to add color and fragrance.
Add Vitamin E.
I think I'll just use the 1/3 soft oils, 1/3 hard oils, and 1/3 beeswax. Add about 5 Vitamin E capsules maybe some cornstarch and some EO and be done with it.
Most, if not all, of the recipes I've found using these, use volume measurements not weight measurements.
First recipe:
1/4 cup Beeswax
1/4 cup Mango Butter
1/4 cup Coconut Oil
1/4 cup Castor Oil
1/4 cup Sunflower Oil
5 Vitamin E capsules
10 drops Essential Oil - Peppermint with orange or lemon? Geranium? Will have to do smell test!
*Don't know if I need cornstarch in this or not. It might be thick without it. If it's too thick, I can add glycerin to thin it out some.
"You can use equal parts of beeswax, butter and a soft oil to create a lotion bar or massage bar as some people call them. That's just a starting point. I made some and didn't like how hard they were so the next time I decreased the beeswax percentage and increased the other two ingredients proportionally."
Rethinking the 1/3 -1/3-1/3 recipe. Think I'll probably end up with a lotion bar instead of lotion.
Think I better up the soft oils some.
Second recipe:
.5 oz Mango Butter (Oleic 34-56%, Stearic 26-57%, Palmitic 3-18%, Linoleic 1-13%).5 oz Cocoa Butter (Stearic 31-38%, Oleic 32-36%, Palmitic 25-30%, Linoleic 3%)
.5 oz Coconut Oil (Lauric 39-54%, Myristic 15-23%, Palmitic 6-11%, Capric 6%
Oleic 4-11%, Stearic 1-4%, Linoleic 1-2%)
.5 oz Castor Oil (Ricinoleic 90%)1.5 oz Sweet Almond Oil (Oleic 64-82%, Linoleic 8-28%, Palmitic 6-8%, Stearic 2%)
1 oz Grapeseed Oil (Linoleic 58-78%, Oleic 12-28%, Palmitic 5-11%, Stearic 3-6%)
.5 oz Flaxseed Oil (**Alpha Linolenic 53%**)
**5 ounces total oil**
5 Vitamin E capsules
7.5 grams VG - goes in water phase (for preservative & emulsification)
1 oz lecithin - goes in oil phase (for emulsification) (3%)
1 oz Polysorbate 80 goes in water phase (used as emulsifier)
1 oz cetly alcohol - goes in oil phase (stabilization) to help with greasy feeling
.13 oz or 4 grams Xanthan gum - goes in COLD water phase (to aide stabilization)
Essential Oil: 7 drops Orange (high in Vitamin C) 3 drops Lemongrass
3 drops Sandalwood I had to add alot more orange and lemongrass to this. Don't know how much, just go by smell.
12 oz PG (used in replacement of 1/2 water total, preservative) If I add 12 oz of distilled water to this, that should make the oils part 18% and waters part 70%
Recipe makes around 36 ounces of lotion total.
6-18-13 This turned out pretty good. It was kinda messy to make, but it worked! It's more a consistency of cream than lotion, but it seems to absorb very well. It probably turned more into a cream because I used PG as half of my water amount. Filled 3 jars.
Because of the relatively high PG content, I can store this lotion
in the freezer and it will not freeze! YAY!
Absorption Ratings of Carrier OilsThese common carrier oils are used in cosmetics, bath and body products. It is important to know how these ingredients rate for absorption, especially if you are planning to include them in homemade products. If you are not a wildcrafter, it is still a good way to educate yourself about the ingredients found in the products you use. These oils are rated using the following scale.1 - Very Fast Absorption Rate Considered a "drying oil" - quickly absorbed by the skin and does not leave an oily feel. 2 - Fast Absorption Rate Feels light and absorbs into the skin readily. Leaves a silky, smooth finish. 3 - Average Absorption Rate Leaves a satiny finish on the skin. 4 - Slow Absorption Rate May feel sticky or waxy before warming at body temperature. Leaves a slight oily residue on the skin. 5 - Very Slow Absorption Rate May need to be heated for application. Feels heavy and leaves an oily, protective barrier on the skin. | ____________________________ CP= Cold Pressed SE= Solvent Extraction CO2= CO2 Extraction ____________________________
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Here's a good sample recipe as far as ratios go.
Body Moisturizer
2 oz. Beeswax
2 oz. Distilled Water
4 oz. Sweet Almond Oil
8 oz. Cocoa Butter
2 oz. Coconut Oil
Melt the Cocoa Butter and Water together then remove from heat and stir until blended. Add the Bees Wax to the Cocoa Butter and Water, return to heat until all ingredients are melted.
Pour moisturizer into containers.
Interesting excerpt from Soap Makers "
but we are confusing "binding/hardening/thickening agent" with "emulsifier" - a common mistake. Here is the definition of emulsion: "emulsions are combination of oil and water held together by a bridge (an emulsifier) that has a water-loving and an oil-loving end." Beeswax is commonly referred to as an emulsifier, but it technically is not; it is only an "emulsifier" in the sense that it can bind oil and wax or butter (all hydrophobic substances). But beeswax on its own does not have the chemical composition to take a hydrophobic substance, such as oil, and make it hydrophilic (water loving). Beeswax "adds hardness and works with borax to emulsify ingredients." If a water/oil emulsion is created without the use of a chelating agent (ie borax), it is likely done through continual agitation of the water/oil combo, which redistributes the water molecules - but only temporarily. Without repeated agitation this emulsion will not remain stable. Parafin, soy, candelilla wax - all of these are simply wax compounds very similar to beeswax that lend thickness to a cream, but cannot bind water molecules on their own.
Which is why we add an alkali, such as borax (or ingredients such as lecithin though it is less stable). "The beeswax is emulsified by the borax to yield fatty acid borates (salts) and fatty alcohols. It’s kind of like making a soap out of borax. The borax actually makes the emulsifier." This is why we use borax in laundry - it emulsifies fats in water. Again, I don't want to argue, but I have also been doing this for more than ten years, and I don't want anyone to go through the same frustration I went through in the beginning - or waste as many materials! When I see a recipe that lists beeswax and water, but no ingredient to emulsify the beeswax, I just skip it. I know it does not have the chemical composition to be a stable emulsion with a lovely texture.
That being said, jessicammorton I think your emulsifier ratios will work beautifully! E-wax is easier, but I love the feel, smell, benefits, and texture of beeswax in my products. Here are some on-line resources for more info on this topic:
http://www.ehow.com/how_5584681_make-be ... ifier.html
I am quite surprised some of you say that you cant combine oil and water with beeswax because this is all I use and it works very well!
just give it a try one day if you are doubtful, I usually do 60% oil / butter with 35% water or floral water and 5% beeswax. I really like those creams, some of them are light and do not leave a greasy feeling, it all depends what kind of oils you are using.
I'm currently doing a 75- 76% water, 15-16% oil 5% e-wax 4-5% stearic, I work those numbers around to 100%, then preservative and fragrance on top of that.
(Note: I’ve read that you can also use Acacia gum (the dried sap of the African Acacia tree) as an emulsifier, and that it works particularly well for lighter lotions. I haven’t tried this yet, but if you wanted an all-natural, plant-based alternative to beeswax or emulsifying wax, using Acacia gum might be a good option.
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